Month: September 2014
I cut out the bodice from the underlining, interfacing, lining, and dress fabric. Attached the interfacing to the underlining and sewed the side seams together then added the boning to the underlining piece.
Next, I sewed together the lining and dress fabric in the same way, being sure to iron open all the seams.
The underlining bodice is attached to the dress fabric bodice, right side of the underlining to the wrong side of the dress fabric bodice, and then sewn together around the edges. Be sure to sew this stitch at less than 5/8 inch so it does not show on the final dress.
The lining is then pinned to the bodice, right sides together, and sewn at 5/8 inch, leaving the bottom open. Once bodices are all sewn together turn the bodice right side out and press. Be sure to turn the shoulder pieces right side out as well. Sew the front and back shoulders together, using a 5/8 inch seam. This can get a little tricky. Remember to leave the right and left shoulders separate in the back as buttons will be added later.
I have been known to alter patterns to make them fit my own need, I have mixed and matched pattern pieces, this is not new for me; but this is the first time that I have drafted up my own pieces.
To quote Plato: Necessity is the mother of invention.
I had been mulling the silhouette of this dress over in my mind for a few days and finally had an epiphany. I wanted the full skirt and the fitted bodice, but what of straps? I have always liked the Edwardian-esk collars, so I decided that I would make my version of one.
I started with a bolero pattern, just the back piece and the front piece, and the pieces for the bodice. I started with the back piece. I cut out a muslin piece to work from. I drew out a small oval to start with (you can always cut a hole bigger, but never smaller) after the first cut I did end up making the hole a bit larger. I cut out the back and back side panels from the bodice pattern and sewed them together, ironing the seam flat. From there I pinned the pieces together to achieve the fit I wanted. Once that was done, I pinned the pieces to a piece of muslin to create a new back panel piece. I repeated the process for the front side panel of the bodice and the front panel of the bolero pattern. I added the grainline and boning notations on the new pattern pieces and ta da!
I am super excited to participate in my first monthly challenge with The Monthly Stitch!
The September 2014 Challenge is the Amnesty Challenge, meaning that participants can choose from any of the past challenges. I chose December 2013’s challenge ‘Tis The Season to Party!
My submission is a plum party dress that I have made this month for my cousin’s wedding in October, because what bigger party could there be than a family wedding!?
I will have posts about this dress in the following weeks 🙂
My cousin is marrying his lovely fiancé in October, only a week after my own one year anniversary. I am very excited to see the two of them wed. They have been together, I believe, since middle school. If not officially together, then I know they have been friends at least that long.
That being said, I have been rolling around the idea of what to wear to their wedding for a while now. A big factor in this process for me was the time line of when my husband and I decided to start our own family. Would I be trying to hide the early stages of pregnancy from my family*, and thus not be wearing a tight fitting style dress? Or would I have lost a great amount of weight because I actually stuck to my exercise routine? (I fell off that wagon, again. Maybe some day I will actually stick to an exercising routine!)
So, knowing my body, and honoring it better this time than the last dress I made, I started thinking about skirts that would flatter my figure but still be functional. (Read as: I can still walk, sit, and dance.) Knowing that this event will be a bit less formal than my own wedding, but still a traditional wedding, I want to be fashionable, but still keep a simple, classical look while flattering my figure and not out-dressing the event.
My solution, a Frankendress.
Okay, I know that doesn’t sound like any of the things I described above, but it will be. By taking into account my body shape, pear, I have concluded that the dress will have a full skirt about knee length, or slightly shorter, a fitted bodice with keyhole bolero style shoulders. It will be a beautiful plum color shantung fabric, possibly with a matching jacket.
So why call it a Frankendress? Because I am taking bits and pieces of other dresses that I have made and putting them together to suit my own vision. I am even going to be drafting some of the pieces myself A FIRST! Hence the name Frankendress.
More updates, and pictures, to follow!
* Don’t judge me for wanting to hid my early stages of pregnancy. I am not one of those people who wants the whole world to know I am pregnant before my second trimester, and even then I would like to keep it to ourselves. Of course, this is all hypothetical as we are NOT currently trying to get pregnant. But in that situation, I do not want the whole family to find out AT MY COUSIN’S WEDDING. That day is for them, not the day to tell everyone that we are expecting.